Ramadan Kareem!

Ramadan is the religious month for Muslims and is well known for the fasting (Sawm) that occurs between sunrise and sunset. It is a time to appreciate and reconnect with family and friends, while reflecting and experiencing on the starvation that some people face every day. I really admire the concept of Ramadan, however I do not understand how they can go all day without eating!

Fasting is much more intense than you may initially think. It is not just food they must give up during daylight hours - it is anything that you would put into your mouth. Chewing gum, smoking cigarettes, drinking water (EVEN IN THIS HEAT!), and (for some) brushing your teeth are considered off-limits during the day. Because of this, school hours are shortened for the month of September (Ramadan lasts until the end of the month) and we are only in class from 8:25 until 1:35. The teachers must leave the school by 2:30 at the latest, as the school closes so those who are fasting can go home and sleep. After a late afternoon rest, families and friends wake up and break the fast together. This time is called “Iftar” and it goes late into the night. This equates to wonky sleep schedules for students and, in some cases, teachers (because of the firecrackers, horns, and street conversations that energize the city overnight). I am starting to get used to the noise, especially since there are loudspeakers all over Maadi that project the “Call to Prayer” every few hours….including during the night…..Ramadan or NOT!

Surprisingly, students have not been affected by the fasting as much as I assumed. I have not heard a single complaint of hunger or exhaustion and the kids still manage to have a fast-paced game of football during their lunchtime. Mornings are always full of fun stories about visits with relatives and my afternoon classes always show excitement for their evening plans.

As a teacher that is not fasting, I do have to be sensitive to those who are observing Ramadan. We are asked not to be “too public” about drinking water and eating snacks, although lunch is an exception and those who are not fasting are free to eat in the cafeteria during this time.

The city looks really pretty during Ramadan, as Ramadan decorations (colourful lanterns and Christmas lights) illuminate the otherwise dark nights. Please note: I think I have seen ONE star the entire time I have been here. Thank you, pollution!

In terms of shopping for groceries, going to the bank, or having an alcoholic drink at a restaurant….don’t get your hopes up! Most stores close in the early afternoon and do not reopen (if they reopen at all) until 8 or 9 in the evening. The bank does not reopen at all and so it is inaccessible to those who work during the day (aka the teachers…and some of them are not impressed!). And the alcohol….well that is also forbidden during Ramadan and even American chains, like Chili’s and TGI Friday’s do not serve alcohol. (As a side story, my roommates and I ate dinner on the NILE last night!!! Right outside, three feet away……..).

Ramadan is also a time for charity. At school, we are doing a food drive for the Egyptian staff, which they will receive at the end of Ramadan during a celebration called Eid El Fitr. It is also a nice gesture to give certain people, perhaps your driver or cleaning lady, a nice Ramadan card with a bit of money inside. I think our cleaning lady at the house deserves a REALLY nice card…she comes every Tuesday and makes our apartment spic and span! She even removes the hair from our hairbrushes!!!! Even I hate that job….

One more side story before I say “sweet dreams”…..I am going to Santorini for Eid! Yes, we do get a week long vacation after this already-shortened month of teaching!

Sweet dreams and Ramadan Kareem!